Photo taking help for a DSLR beginner

[Guyzerr]

That's funny you say that as I totally agree with you :nod:

Except the part about forgetting about the app.


Just shoot girl and forget about all the other fluff.

 

[Guyzerr]

Regarding the blurriness, I saw a video a few weeks ago that hinted that the next version of PS will probably have a function that will fix the clarity of an image. It was amazing to see what they did.

As far as all this stuff, I never used a manual setting until I went out and shot a couple of models with a friend of mine a month or two back. Ever since, I've hardly used a manual shot at all. The hardest part for me is getting the lighting right. I feel like I have to take a picture like 15 times before I can get the lens open enough to let enough light in. Perhaps it's because I haven't looked through my book enough, but is it just practice that gets you to know how to shoot to get the best light?

Practice is the best method but starting with a little guide will also assist. Many years ago in my slide shooting days and well before I broke down and bought a light meter I used to keep a printed ver of this in my pocket and I used it as a starting point. ( I no longer use a light meter )

Aperture - Lighting Conditions - Shadow Detail

f/16 - Sunny - Distinct

f/11 - Slightly Overcast - Soft around edges

f/8 - Overcast - Barely visible

f/5.6 - Heavy Overcast - No shadow

 

[Alien Allen]

OK for all those wondering about LCDs and why not to use them for picture shooting..

One of the products I sell is LCD ( TFT's ) and here are the issues..

TFT's have a delay in them.. Think of it as making a very long distance call to Europe or Asia and waiting to hear the other person answering you..In Layman's terms it is only a split second but think of it in your shutter sheet going to 400 to 200. That split second makes the total difference.

Also what you see is NOT what you get.. They also have angles of viewing on them.. Ever walk into Best Buys and see how one looks sharper, brighter or more colourful then the other.. This is why using your view finder on the Camera is totally important..

As for the aspect of the display it can skew the picture due to the delay.. Bird is mid picture in the view finder but by the time the shutter goes of you have that same issue as that 400 to 200 shutter speed so the bird loses it head in the shot because your not moving fast enough with the camera even if you have stabilization..

Hope that helps..

Maybe I misunderstood or was not clear. I do use the eye piece. Always.. The comment was made to zoom the LCD to see how clear the pic was. I am assuming that is the LCD on the camera where you can view the pic. I have a Nikkon D80.... I bought it because the point and shoot cameras have the lag. There is no lag with my camera.

And what is a grey card anyway?

 

[Guyzerr]

Maybe I misunderstood or was not clear. I do use the eye piece. Always.. The comment was made to zoom the LCD to see how clear the pic was. I am assuming that is the LCD on the camera where you can view the pic. I have a Nikkon D80.... I bought it because the point and shoot cameras have the lag. There is no lag with my camera.

Without checking the specs on your camera I'm sure you should be able to zoom in while you are reviewing your shot. ( I'll check later and let you know )

And what is a grey card anyway?

Link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gray_card

psstttttttttttt.......... don't worry about it.

 

[Darrell]

What kind of camera are you using?

Dimes to donuts you are not holding it straight even though you think you are. If it was the fault of the camera all your photos would be crooked not just 1/2 of 'em.

Fair enough. It's a Nikon d40.

 

[Guyzerr]

I am assuming that is the LCD on the camera where you can view the pic. I have a Nikkon D80....

Bottom left corner button that looks like a magnifying glass will allow you to zoom in while you are reviewing your shot. Then use the larger button just beside the top right corner of your screen to shift picture around. ( I think ).

 

[Guyzerr]

Fair enough. It's a Nikon d40.

When I use my bazooka and chase stuff in flight I have the same problem for some silly reason. I never have that issue when I shoot a stationary subject. Maybe it's because I concentrate more on everything else instead of trying to follow a stupid bird.

 

[Alien Allen]

Thanks Guy

And thanks to the OP for the thread

 

[Tuffdisc]

I have 2 Qns: 1) since over exposure was discussed earlier in the thread, I've read about using gray cards to help find the gray spot thru framing the card to improve light- under/overexposure. It stated that the camera will suggest the settings for the appropriate lighting. Such settings will be meteredinto the camera b4 taking the actual shot. Anybody ever used those?

If the camera has white balancing which I heard also helps with lighting/more natural color etc- are those gray cards useful?

2) am confused with the AF points now- I get the general idea but my Qn is with the 19 AF points this camera has plus variations, what's an appropriate AF setting for landscape?

With landscapes you only need one

 

[Tuffdisc]

I have the Canon EOS 7D for Dummies. Given it's for dummies, it's very appropriate for me
I will look into this book though. Thanks

There's also an interactive app for 7D on the IPhone which am so tempted to get but it's quite expensive. I'll learn the basics through books then get the advanced app soon.

Stick to the basics first, don't try fancy gizmos/apps yet. There is a Bryan Peterson book about exposure, get it from the library read it and learn it will teach you....I have learnt with it.