Looking at A New Motorcycle Today

[Stone]

Did you pick it up?...the more I read about the bike the more I like it...great buy

Yep......rode it around most of the afternoon. In fact, just got in about 1/2 hour ago

Incredible machine.
Roll on power in second is greater than my Bandit 1200S.
Lots of torque at low rpm.
Steering is quick and needs only shallow input.
Vibration isn't a problem and that's surprising for such a large single.
Love the brakes and suspension. Nose dive is minimal on a hard stop.

The bike fits me perfectly. The mechanic that did the setup adjusted brake and shift levers to perfection for my height.
The seat is the most comfortable one I've ever been on.
Handlebar position keeps me sitting upright with a gentle/comfortable lean into the bars.
Bar width is perfect for me.

6 speed transmission shifts smooth and crisp without being notchy.

It has only a headlight fairing, but the air hitting chest and helmet is 'clean' air with no buffeting.

I'd definitely buy it again if I had to.

 

[The Man]

Thats what I call a happy buyer....so you dont have to lean up to far to tbe bars then it sounds like..that was my worry.

 

[Stone]

Thats what I call a happy buyer....so you dont have to lean up to far to tbe bars then it sounds like..that was my worry.

It's a pretty conventional situp straight position.
The photos at the link I posted earlier show riders leaning into the bars, but if you look at a side view of the bike, the bar allows a mostly straight situp position. Notice the relationship of seat height to bar height.

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/motorcycles/2014models/2014-KTM-690Duke.htm
( 4th photo from top )

While it accelerates, handles and stops like a sport bike, it's ergonomics are closer to a UJM of the late 1970's/early 80's. Comfortable for long rides, but very capable of sport riding.
Definitely not of the ricky racer or joe rocket imagery.

 

[The Man]

I went back at looked at the image below...it had looked like a crotch rocket at first glace..but upon looking again the bars are about mid torso and the elbows are bent...the tank shape had given me the illusion that one lad to lay forward...but it looks comfortable once you look past the illusion....the bars are up there where I like em.

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/motorcycles/2014models/2014-KTM-690Duke2.jpg

 

[Stone]

It's actually a pretty quick bike even though it's only a single cylinder 690 cc engine.
Looking through the owners manual, I found it has 2 oil filters.
I've adjusted the fuel map setting to 'normal'.
The power setting was more for racing and it was hard to keep a legal speed

 

[The Man]

I used to ride an old Yamaha thumper on occasion many years ago..I would gain speed alot faster than I realized as then engine didnt sound like it was rapping as it was a single cylinder.
Pleasure to ride with all that low end power...this was many years ago..your bike will be so much more powerful..I envy you.

 

[Stone]

The biggest plus is it's light weight.
A lot of Jap bikes have good packages, but in the same performance range about 100+ lbs heavier.
Makes a big difference in handling.

 

[Stone]

Finally put enough miles on it to do the first oil change.
The weather's been either wet, cold or cold and wet, too often to ride much lately.
Hoping to see a change in the next day or two.

 

[The Man]

How many miles was that first scheduled oil change.
Does the transmission and engine share the same oil.

 

[Joe the meek]

Fricken fell for it, zombie post.

 

[Stone]

How many miles was that first scheduled oil change.
Does the transmission and engine share the same oil.

I changed at 640 miles, on schedule.

The transmission and engine share the same oil as do most imported MCs.
But there are dual filters, one that filters the bottom end of the engine and another that filters the valve train.
There are two drains and each drain plug has a magnet.
Also associated with the filters are two oil screens before the filters.

Oil gets a lot of filtration.

The old oil came out out very clean. Next oil change in 6000 miles.

Good engineering.

 

[The Man]

I changed at 640 miles, on schedule.

The transmission and engine share the same oil as do most imported MCs.
But there are dual filters, one that filters the bottom end of the engine and another that filters the valve train.
There are two drains and each drain plug has a magnet.
Also associated with the filters are two oil screens before the filters.

Oil gets a lot of filtration.

The old oil came out out very clean. Next oil change in 6000 miles.

Good engineering.

Gear boxes have a bad habit of chewing up polymers in oil {viscosity index improvers}..I would send the oil in to get it tested on the next change to determine if its holding up...a high quality oil will hold up as it doesnt rely as much on polymers to stay in grade.
Also fuel contamination is another concern,,but since its fuel injected that pretty much rules that out.
With 690 cc and 2 or 3 quarts of oil the oil gets a pretty easy life except for the gear box....it will be 20 bucks well spent and give piece of mind as they check for wear metals also when the analyze the oil.

 

[Stone]

Gear boxes have a bad habit of chewing up polymers in oil {viscosity index improvers}..I would send the oil in to get it tested on the next change to determine if its holding up...a high quality oil will hold up as it doesnt rely as much on polymers to stay in grade.
Also fuel contamination is another concern,,but since its fuel injected that pretty much rules that out.
With 690 cc and 2 or 3 quarts of oil the oil gets a pretty easy life except for the gear box....it will be 20 bucks well spent and give piece of mind as they check for wear metals also when the analyze the oil.

I'm already using the factory approved synthetic motorcycle oil for KTMs.
MotorEX 10W 50, and there aren't going to be many better oils to choose from because automotive synthetics can cause clutch failures in some bikes and this KTM has what is called a 'slipper' clutch with a very light lever pull. I was warned at the dealer that automotive synthetics were causing problems with my model.
Also, there are very few brands of 10W 50 or 10W 60 (the other recommended grade) motorcycle synthetic oils readily available.
So I'll be sticking with MotorEx. I bought mine through Amazon rather than the dealer.

 

[The Man]

I'm already using the factory approved synthetic motorcycle oil for KTMs.
MotorEX 10W 50, and there aren't going to be many better oils to choose from because automotive synthetics can cause clutch failures in some bikes and this KTM has what is called a 'slipper' clutch with a very light lever pull. I was warned at the dealer that automotive synthetics were causing problems with my model.
Also, there are very few brands of 10W 50 or 10W 60 (the other recommended grade) motorcycle synthetic oils readily available.
So I'll be sticking with MotorEx. I bought mine through Amazon rather than the dealer.

Ok thats a high viscosity oil..so even if it did shear its not an issue.
I would still have the oil analyzed though on that next change though as it will let you know if you have any wear going on in case you have to make a warranty claim later down the road for some reason....very common practice on upper end cars as well as over the road trucks and heavy equipment.
It will let you know the tbn of your oil as well which could call for shorter intervals on the change or allow you to run longer.
It detects air leaks that sneak around the air filter.
Whether you are susceptible to sludge.
Wear metals..with different metals showing what is wearing.
Its peace of mind with a new machine...then send in a sample every fourth of fifth oil change so any potential problems can be caught early...or to find out if you need to reduce the oil change frequency due to insolubles or low tbn.

 

[Stone]

I'll pass on that right now. Too much of a hassle.
Modern bikes have become like cars, turn the key, drive and do the service intervals by the book.
A lot of information can be gained by just being able to read an old oil filter which I can.
I've put high mileage on several bikes with no issues.
One bike I'd owned, a 1981 Yamaha 920R, had issues when it started shedding metal off a transmission bearing at ~46K. I bought the bike used with 1700 miles on the odo, but wear and tear plus new tires put it more likely at 10 to 20K when I bought it. I bought it cheap so there wasn't much loss..
All the rest of the 4 strokers I've owned held up quite well on synthetics.

 

[Alien Allen]

my brother was a stickler for excessive oil changes. On a new car he would do it at 300-500 miles max as he felt there could be some shavings in it from a new engine.

I would think as Stone said if you know what you are doing when inspecting the oil and filter after a change that one should not have to do more sophisticated testing.

 

[The Man]

my brother was a stickler for excessive oil changes. On a new car he would do it at 300-500 miles max as he felt there could be some shavings in it from a new engine.

I would think as Stone said if you know what you are doing when inspecting the oil and filter after a change that one should not have to do more sophisticated testing.

I look at it like a check up for whats going on inside for 20 bucks on an investment of several thousand dollars.
Not all engines abuse oil the same...some will go way past the recommended change interval others will have be somewhat rougher on it...and on those it is best to change it before...I go about 20 k on my Subaru as the non turbo models are known to be easy on oil.. I use European spec oil.
Roughly 5 quarts for 2.5 liters on the subaru..which would be close to 12 quarts for a 350 5.7L Chevy for instance.
The mazda has about 8k oil change intervals...it gets a cheaper oil
The dodge..{dont laugh} is going on 20k intervals with the 2.4 liter as I am using extended drain oil and has has a 5 quart sump
I will send in a sample at that 20k to see if the oil has been ran to long for my application...if not then I will go for 25 k..if it is out of grade or has a low tbn will go to 15k and call it good.
I dont like to crawl underneath em anymore than I have to.

 

[Stone]

On my cars and truck, I've been changing oil ( Mobil 1 ) plus filter change every 10K, and my other motorcycles at 5K with Mobil 1.

I'm not comfortable with longer service periods even though I see people having success.

 

[The Man]

On my cars and truck, I've been changing oil ( Mobil 1 ) plus filter change every 10K, and my other motorcycles at 5K with Mobil 1.

I'm not comfortable with longer service periods even though I see people having success.

I gave up the 3000 mile oil changes ages ago as well..I pay more for better oil and keep it in longer.
The dodge has the mobil in it

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_High_Mileage_5W-30.aspx#
Under the specs its listed as ACEA A1/B1, A5/B5 ...the A5/B5 is extended drain for euro spec oil
Alot of the mobil oils meet the spec ..would be nuts to change it every 3000 miles.

 

[Stone]

I quit on the 3000 mile service back in the mid 1980's when I went with synthetics..
I've also gone to synthetics in transmissions and differentials.
I could feel the benefits in the worst of a cold winter.
Not only did the engines start faster, rolling resistance was reduced in short trips and fuel mileage slightly improved.