help: tips on portraits/wildlife/fashion

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purpledove

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Here are some pics (unedited) from yesterday's photo shoot. I wasn't fast enough changing settings to blur the background on some & I was missing some nice poses by some models...so i left my settings with no Dof :p


IMG_0565.jpg

IMG_0905.jpg

IMG_0893.jpg

IMG_1229.jpg
 

pinkporridge

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The 2nd and last are great compositions! the background on these are blurred. the background can be recognisable, just not pin sharp otherwise it distracts the eye from the subject. These images are very good. Especially as you arn't experienced in photographing people. Well done!
 

Tuffdisc

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Haven't you got your solution disc that came with the camera??

You will find a decent enough editor call Digital Photo Professional
 

purpledove

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The 2nd and last are great compositions! the background on these are blurred. the background can be recognisable, just not pin sharp otherwise it distracts the eye from the subject. These images are very good. Especially as you arn't experienced in photographing people. Well done!

My struggle is adjusting my lens to get a good depth of field/blur background :( I am btw- attending a DSLR workshop in San Diego (given by a famous wedding and landscape photographer who tours different states to do workshops) today to learn more hands on.

There's a photo shoot of pirates in the upcoming weeks and I'll surely be able to practice more and apply your tips.

Thanks so much. I'll always keep those advises in mind :D:thumbup


Haven't you got your solution disc that came with the camera??

You will find a decent enough editor call Digital Photo Professional

I'll look into that.

Iphoto has a decent editor too esp with the upgraded Lion OS. I also just received my CS5.
 
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banned

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@ purple....I think you did GREAT ..and agree with pink.If this is your first attempt than for sure you show talent.
Remember that there is a other way to create and play with dept of field other than your camera also available.
Play with moving your subjects further away from the background.
Look at what you cam is saying were your debt of field is going to be.
If it says between 3 to 8 meters or ft...have your models move away 10 from the back ground but make sure some of your background is (even when its blurry) still regonizable as otherwise you might as well do the shotz in a studio.
Think your on the right track and will learn fast.Good Job.
One more thing ...try to use long focal lenses also while playing with backgrounds...

ps: and ehhhh Learn it to do all without any digital stuff like photoshop or any stupid f... programmmmm...you gonna be great...
 
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Tuffdisc

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Yup, you're right about the shutter speed and filters. I learned it when i spoke with a friend last night about settings too and he agrees with higher aperture for freeze motion....He took this and he has a technique to make the whirlpool effect. Posting attached pic with permission.


DSCF1220.jpg

I have just notice that your images, not the one attached here, is slightly over exposed again.

I fear that you are taking advice from a Noink user who is putting their camera on ISO200 (Because their cameras can only go down to ISO200)

Use only ISO100 for landscapes and push the histogram to make sure it is dead centre (on both sides) or near enough
 

purpledove

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@ purple....I think you did GREAT ..and agree with pink.If this is your first attempt than for sure you show talent.
Remember that there is a other way to create and play with dept of field other than your camera also available.
Play with moving your subjects further away from the background.
Look at what you cam is saying were your debt of field is going to be.
If it says between 3 to 8 meters or ft...have your models move away 10 from the back ground but make sure some of your background is (even when its blurry) still regonizable as otherwise you might as well do the shotz in a studio.
Think your on the right track and will learn fast.Good Job.
One more thing ...try to use long focal lenses also while playing with backgrounds...

ps: and ehhhh Learn it to do all without any digital stuff like photoshop or any stupid f... programmmmm...you gonna be great...

I appreciate you sharing some tips esp on the DOF. I need to save too for a good long focal length lens. Those lenses don't come cheap :p

Thanks much :)

Also am trying my very best to get away from using those editing softwares hence my asking for photography tips before a shoot & afterwards how to correct
my failed shots ( thru suggested camera settings etc) so when i go back to retake them- i know what to do. I spend lots of time editing just 1 pic and can get frustrating. I'm not adept with it and will take time for me to learn those too given am NOT tech savvy. Those softwares are just my '911 solution' to some of the shots am trying to salvage like this shot on this thread.

http://www.offtopicz.net/showthread.php?81332-editing-software-tips
 

purpledove

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I have just notice that your images, not the one attached here, is slightly over exposed again.

I fear that you are taking advice from a Noink user who is putting their camera on ISO200 (Because their cameras can only go down to ISO200)

Use only ISO100 for landscapes and push the histogram to make sure it is dead centre (on both sides) or near enough

L0L....those dudes ( am presuming, if they're the one's you're talking about) are from POTN and given that they are Canon users. I know they used to be Nikon users until they shifted to Canon from what i was told.

I have noticed however that when i use AV mode- i only can get get down to 200-250 on my ISO. I haven't noticed that on TV mode but i know for sure when am on manual mode which am trying to do now is when I can get to an ISO 100.

I'll check on my histograms. Thanks.
 

Tuffdisc

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L0L....those dudes ( am presuming, if they're the one's you're talking about) are from POTN and given that they are Canon users. I know they used to be Nikon users until they shifted to Canon from what i was told.

I have noticed however that when i use AV mode- i only can get get down to 200-250 on my ISO. I haven't noticed that on TV mode but i know for sure when am on manual mode which am trying to do now is when I can get to an ISO 100.

I'll check on my histograms. Thanks.


Go down to ISO200 on Av mode? I'm sure you can go down to ISO100 all Canon cameras can do that AFAIK. Again, I would use a little bit of compensation for you not to over exposed the image ;)
 

purpledove

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f/32 to freeze the water? I know what you mean by the silky water effect..just that most togs use filters to get that effect plus the slow shutter

I attended a photography workshop last Saturday given by a well known & experienced photographer (travels US and other parts of the world to teach) and I just wanna share this info in relation to the question above ^^^.

YES! the aperture is at f/32 :p

IMG_1414_2.jpg
 

Tuffdisc

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I attended a photography workshop last Saturday given by a well known & experienced photographer (travels US and other parts of the world to teach) and I just wanna share this info in relation to the question above ^^^.

YES! the aperture is at f/32 :p

IMG_1414_2.jpg


That is not to freeze water, that is to make it silky in appearance :p
 

purpledove

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That is not to freeze water, that is to make it silky in appearance :p

It says on the notes below that pic---> 'for a frozen image'

Besides- wasn't that what i mentioned in my water shot ---> to have that silky, smooth look of the water and freeze water action YET you still questioned it? :ninja

F/32 it is !!!
 

Tuffdisc

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It says on the notes below that pic---> 'for a frozen image'

Besides- wasn't that what i mentioned in my water shot ---> to have that silky, smooth look of the water and freeze water action YET you still questioned it? :ninja

F/32 it is !!!

Its frozen because you have kept the camera steady :tooth
 

pinkporridge

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No it has worked cos it is a longer shutterspeed. Cos it would let in more light they have upped he aperture to even out the exposure. The shutterspeed effects he blur of the water.
 
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