Photography Tips & Tricks

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Siphorous

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There's one rule to this thread and as Guy put it so well, I'll repeat it:

Don't post anything not pertaining to the subject. I don't want to see a helpful thread become cluttered. Thanks for your understanding.

My hope is that this thread will be of some help to those out there who'd love to learn more about their camera or photography in general.

We can get as technical or as simple as required and everyone with an interest in photographs is welcome to ask questions or post their own tips and tricks.

Naturally it will be geared more towards the digital crowd but folks such as Janie who would like to share their tips on film photography are of course welcome to.

Obviously I won't cover everything in one thread so I'll start with a couple of things and as per Guy's suggestion - feel free to post a picture you've got an issue along with the EXIF data and I'm sure if not just from the picture itself but from the EXIF there'll be suggestions for improving the shot.

EXIF?

Well, it stands for exchangeable imagefile format and will allow you to see various metadata such as camera settings for example.

The following image should help you see what I mean. It's taken from one of my Joshua Tree shots:

802453053_JtNZX-O.jpg

I used FastStone Image Viewer to grab that information (by pressing 'I' when an image is selected). It's free, lightweight and has a variety of useful photo functions. Of course - Windows or any decent os or photo package should also provide the same information if not always in as concise a format.

For now, let's take one of those settings - aperture.

Aperture.

The best way to describe aperture is to think of your camera lens as the pupil in the human eye. The bigger the aperture (or opening) - the more light can reach your camera's sensor.

The aperture of your camera lens is expressed in terms of something called F-stops. This can be seen on camera lenses as figures such as F/3.5, F3.5 etc.

Lenses can come in fixed apertures or as a range of apertures. Chances are that if you have a point and shoot type camera, the lens will have a range of apertures.

As for the numbers - the lower the number - the bigger the aperture and therefore the more light it will let in. E.g. some of the fastest lenses that will capture the most light come with an F-stop of F1.4 (there are faster - this is just an example).

A small idea of an F-stop range is the following:

F2.8
F4
F5.6
F8

A lens set at an F-stop value of say F2.8 will let in twice as much light as the same lens set at F4 for example. You're not normally restricted to change F-stop values in full increments as per the example range I've listed - you can often change F-stop values in half or third increments too.

The most important thing to remember about the F-stop number is bigger = less light reaching your camera sensor. This means that if you want to take shots in low light conditions - it's most useful if you have a lens that has as low an F-stop value as possible. Low F-stop = larger aperture.

The other important thing to consider about aperture is that it also controls depth of field. I'll take and post example pictures if wanted but lets consider this for a moment.

Depth of field

What would you like to appear in focus and sharp in your picture? Imagine you want to take a picture of some flowers in a field. You set your aperture to say F2.8 and focus in on a bunch of flowers and capture that. They are sharp and in focus but the rest of the soil and say field appear blurry. From the same position you take the same picture but at an aperture of F8. Now, the bunch of flowers and most of the field (if not all) will appear sharp and in focus.

Depth of field can be used creatively to enhance your shots.

I'll leave it there for now but please feel free to add your own insights or ask questions. It might not be me replying - but you will get an answer to a question I'm sure by any of the photographers here.
 
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JanieDough

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Siph or you other guys ;) can you post examples of each of the subjects - maybe a photo taken on two different apertures (to demonstrate light) and maybe one with deep v. shallow depth of field?

I think that would help illustrate your points more.



A very nice thing of shallow depth of field is if you take a portrait of some one and you don't want the crap in the background to distract from your person, you set your camera at a shallow depth of field.
 

Siphorous

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I didn't have an example handy Janie but I'll demonstrate an example of this tonight. Sometimes the effect can be obvious, sometimes more subtle but hopefully I'll be able to illustrate that later.
 

Guyzerr

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Considering I am new to the world of macro I would love to see Ian help out a bit and post a few shots with the data outlined. It would gimme a better idea as to what I'm doing wrong. He's getting it down to a science. Come on Skyblue... post a couple.
 

Alien Allen

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Considering I am new to the world of macro I would love to see Ian help out a bit and post a few shots with the data outlined. It would gimme a better idea as to what I'm doing wrong. He's getting it down to a science. Come on Skyblue... post a couple.

Good idea. I assume he is getting real close to things and zooming in. But then how the hell do you keep a fly from sitting still to do that. I must be clueless. On this item only. Anything unrelated to taking pics and I am a genius :D
 

Guyzerr

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Good idea. I assume he is getting real close to things and zooming in. But then how the hell do you keep a fly from sitting still to do that. I must be clueless. On this item only. Anything unrelated to taking pics and I am a genius :D
That part I do know about. It's the f stop, shutter speed etc that I'm interested in. I would also like to know if he got that flash ring.
 

Siphorous

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Demonstrating depth of field.

Well - there's infinitely better shots out there but I didn't want to link or steal an example so here's a couple of examples of how changing your aperture affects depth of field.

First up is an example I took a few minutes ago of a shot at F2.8 (large aperture, shallow depth of field).
802952957_vwxDj-M.jpg

...and then almost the same (tripod camera shake!) at F22 (small aperture, deep depth of field).
802953006_bHTEq-M.jpg

As you can see - increasing the aperture can allow you to focus on what you would like to be most prominent in your photo. Decreasing the aperture allows you to take more of the scene but - the camera will be compensating by increasing the shutter speed to allow more light to hit the sensor. This is what often will have you needing that tripod unless you are shooting in plenty of bright light or have a camera that will allow you to set both independently.

Next up is a more subtle example of depth of field.

First up, a shot at F2.8
802952877_aUtai-M.jpg

...and then the same shot at F8
802952909_QZEiP-M.jpg


On the surface, the shots appear to be almost as sharp as each other don't they (unless you have sharp eyes).

Let's go in closer and look at that F2.8 shot again.
802952903_RGC85-M.jpg

...and the same corner from the F8 shot.
802952950_TwbWP-M.jpg

See how changing the aperture and seemingly having not much impact on the overall scene - does in fact have a big impact as you get closer in? Again, the larger F2.8 aperture generated a shallower depth of field than the narrower F8 aperture.
 

skyblue

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Considering I am new to the world of macro I would love to see Ian help out a bit and post a few shots with the data outlined. It would gimme a better idea as to what I'm doing wrong. He's getting it down to a science. Come on Skyblue... post a couple.

believe it or not guyz doing the close-ups is still pretty new to me,i only really went into it with a vengeance last summer so its still trial and error....but when insects re-emerge i certainly will post pics and data...anything to help

Good idea. I assume he is getting real close to things and zooming in. But then how the hell do you keep a fly from sitting still to do that. I must be clueless. On this item only. Anything unrelated to taking pics and I am a genius :D

ok,i want you to do an experiment....next time you see a fly in your house i want you to very carefully and slowly see how close you can get your open hand to it when landed....closer than you imagine i bet...the macro lens i have is a prime lens meaning it has no zoom....meaning that with this shot for example this is what i saw through the viewfinder

df1315.png

That part I do know about. It's the f stop, shutter speed etc that I'm interested in. I would also like to know if he got that flash ring.

shutter speed needs to be as fast as possible for insects guyz,especially flies

i held off on the flash for the time being
 

Guyzerr

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Good tips guyz.


I love this thread already. See Siph that wasn't so hard was it?
 
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Guyzerr

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I agree. And it really helps when there are examples shown like Siphorous displayed with an explanation as to which settings were used :)
:homo: Now we gotta get Ian on board. He sounds like he's game so I'm looking forward to it. Macro is something I really want to try my hand at this summer.
 

Guyzerr

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can you guys maybe explain ISO too? and the difference in grain for each of the ISO's?
Each of the ISO's. :eek That's a tough one because there are so many settings. This link will give you a very brief explanation that's easy to understand.

http://digital-photography-school.com/iso-settings

To sum it it Janie O'babe the lower the setting the less noise you'll see in your shots. Noise to digital cameras is what " grain " is to film. That said, what I try and do is shoot at 400 or under on sunny days. The brighter it is the lower I go depending of course on what I'm shooting. If I'm after birds or aircraft I like to stick to 200 - 400 if I can get away with it shutter speed wise. My cameras sweet spot is around 200. On cloudy days or evening stuff I don't like to go much higher than 800 cuz I hate noise with a passion. I know a lot can be removed by using a photo editor but that takes away from the sharpness more often than not. The sharpness can be corrected but it turns into a never ending cycle so I'd rather not.

Here's a shitty example of noise just so you see what I'm saying. No critiques svp cuz I had just bought my 30D and shot everything on automatic. :yuk


Big crop btw......... From this crop it doesn't look all that bad.

darkeyedjunco2.jpg


And a close in bigger crop so you can see all the noise. Yes all those little specks are noisy pixels and that's what you're trying to avoid.

darkeyedjuncoclose.jpg



Data.......

junco.jpg
 

skyblue

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What was the f stop on the fly shot Ian?



You didn't use a flash on the fly. Not even the onboard one?

this one might be a better example,but until i figure out how to do the data read out i'll have to copy and paste:ninja



guyz1580.png

F-stop f/10
Exposure time 1/200 sec
ISO speed ISO 400


on a bright sunny day theres not really any need to use a flash,its still bright and the shutter speed can be faster
 

Goat Whisperer

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believe it or not guyz doing the close-ups is still pretty new to me,i only really went into it with a vengeance last summer so its still trial and error....but when insects re-emerge i certainly will post pics and data...anything to help



ok,i want you to do an experiment....next time you see a fly in your house i want you to very carefully and slowly see how close you can get your open hand to it when landed....closer than you imagine i bet...the macro lens i have is a prime lens meaning it has no zoom....meaning that with this shot for example this is what i saw through the viewfinder

df1315.png



shutter speed needs to be as fast as possible for insects guyz,especially flies

i held off on the flash for the time being

That sounds soooo cool! I mean to see that through your view finder. I want a macro lens.

I might add something later... my biggest tip right now, don't lose your camera charger :( I miss mine dearly.
 

Guyzerr

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this one might be a better example,but until i figure out how to do the data read out i'll have to copy and paste:ninja
Thanks for posting your info Ian.

If you can find a free Image Capture program you could " snap " it and upload a pic like I did.

I use HyperSnap. It's a great tool that I bought years ago when it was about 10 bucks. Today it's a bit more.
 

Siphorous

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Decreasing the aperture allows you to take more of the scene but - the camera will be compensating by increasing the shutter speed to allow more light to hit the sensor.

Quoting this to correct something. No edit available at all. Guess I never noticed that edit expires after a certain time!

Anyway, that should be decreasing not 'increasing'. :)
 
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