Granite Tile Waterproofing

[Brujahpriest]

Hey all you handy people, I have a big question (well big for me). Is there a thin Waterproofing material that you would suggest? I've used HardiBacker before, but that may be too thick for the application.

The situation I have: Kitchen counter has all been set up Plywood and wood edge pieces that will be going on the exterior faces of the counter. I have Granite tiles that are leaving about an 1/8 of an inch at max for Thinset and the waterproofing. and less for some tiles. (Ill upload pictures later, unless you have Thornless on facebook, she has some piccies up there).

 

[NuckingFuts]

Correct me if I am wrong (not an expert) But I thought Hardybacker was the cement board you put behind the tile?

Are you saying to are looking to put something down before you tile? Or are you looking for a coating to go over it?

 

[Brujahpriest]

Aye, that's what HardiBacker is. I used it on my floor for that build up, and had planned on using it here, but it looks like the tile was a little deeper than I planned on.

Mostly looking to see if there is a waterproofing layer that is thin, that thinset can be used on that will help with water tightness. I would like this counter to last.

 

[Tim]

You can get hardy board in 1/4" thickness. If you can fit it, it will be well worth it. The last thing you want is tiles popping down the road. If any moisture makes it down to the plywood, it will make it swell breaking the bond of the thinset.

If you cannot make it work, at the very least, put 3 or 4 heavy coats of outdoor paint on the plywood first. Then let it dry for a few days. This will keep the plywood dimensionally stable and help prevent tile movement.

If you have a dishwasher, make sure you coat the underside of the plywood there as well. The steam from the dry cycle will really do a number on unprotected plywood.

 

[Tim]

And yes, you can use thinset over paint if it's cured and you sand it first.

 

[Thornless]

Here's what we are dealing with.

And before anyone says anything, no, the sink is not hooked up or installed. It will be removed before we tile.

 

[Tim]

That sink will never do...

It doesn't have a faucet.

 

[Thornless]

That sink will never do...

It doesn't have a faucet.

I wanted a splash pad for the kids

 

[PoopaSwoof]

If you have less than 1/4 inch to work with then you could use a liquid based waterproofing like Custom Building Products Redguard. You just paint it on (carefully) and let it dry. It leaves a waterproof surface that thinset will bond to. Take plenty of time while installing the granite. You want to get each piece level to the next so the counter will be as smooth as possible.

http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/ProductCatalog/SurfacePrep/WaterproofingAntiFractureMembranes/RedGard.aspx?user=dis⟨=en

 

[Thornless]

If you have less than 1/4 inch to work with then you could use a liquid based waterproofing like Custom Building Products Redguard. You just paint it on (carefully) and let it dry. It leaves a waterproof surface that thinset will bond to. Take plenty of time while installing the granite. You want to get each piece level to the next so the counter will be as smooth as pissible.

http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/ProductCatalog/SurfacePrep/WaterproofingAntiFractureMembranes/RedGard.aspx?user=dis⟨=en

Thank Poopa!

How about you come do it for us

Free room, board, and massages

 

[PoopaSwoof]

Thank Poopa!

How about you come do it for us

Free room, board, and massages

I'de love to but my corporate masters have me on a short leash.

What are you going to use to cut your granite?

 

[Brujahpriest]

I've got a wet saw, though i may need to replace the diamond blade in it.

 

[PoopaSwoof]

I've got a wet saw, though i may need to replace the diamond blade in it.

Wet saw is the only way to go with granite.
Granite is very hard and will cut fairly slowly. Your first cut will tell you if you need to change the blade.
Blades dont cost nearly as much as they used to.
As always. take your time and let the machine do the work, dont force it.

Layout is really important too.
Dry lay as much as possible to determine where your cuts will land. Your countertop is probably 25 inches deep so you want that little cut in the back.

I wish I could fly up and help.
Pray that I win the lottery so I can.

 

[Guyzerr]

Your countertop is probably 25 inches deep so you want that little cut in the back.

25 & 1/2" if you build it right.

 

[Brujahpriest]

Wet saw is the only way to go with granite.
Granite is very hard and will cut fairly slowly. Your first cut will tell you if you need to change the blade.
Blades dont cost nearly as much as they used to.
As always. take your time and let the machine do the work, dont force it.

Layout is really important too.
Dry lay as much as possible to determine where your cuts will land. Your countertop is probably 25 inches deep so you want that little cut in the back.

I wish I could fly up and help.
Pray that I win the lottery so I can.

Yeah, going slow is not going to be a problem! I picked up the Red Guard today, along with the grout and spacers... so prolly waterproofing today, then measureing and layout this week.

 

[PoopaSwoof]

Yeah, going slow is not going to be a problem! I picked up the Red Guard today, along with the grout and spacers... so prolly waterproofing today, then measureing and layout this week.

RedGuard bonds to anything. It's a good idea to tape off the perimeter with blue tape.
You dont need no stinkin spacers man.
Toothpicks work well and they are cheap. Just remember to break them in half so you dont get impaled, and they go twice as far. Unlike pot, a tight little joint is a good joint on countertops. Less to clean.


Good luck
Poop