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Tim

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Before you get all beside yourself, know that this is not your typical ask a member thread.

I want to create a thread for anyone who needs help with anything to do with your home or apartment. If you have any how to questions, this is the place to ask. I have been in the business for 23 years and I thought I would share the knowledge.

If you want to know how to replace a window, unclog a drain, remodel a kitchen or even how to intelligently talk to professionals who you hire... It doesn't matter, post up your question.

I do ask that you keep the thread clean of chat for those who do have questions...
 
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TheOriginalJames

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on my garbage disposal, they basically epoxied it to the bottom of the sink. Whats the best discourse of changing that out?

Should I try to just replace the disposal (it leaks out the bottom) or should I just do the entire sink top/faucets/lines and disposal at once?
 

Tim

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You could try to pry it off and scrape the bottom of the bowl clean. Then you can buy a new sink strainer and trap assembly for a few bucks to get it up and running for little cash. If you have a dishwasher, make sure the trap assembly is equipped with an inlet for the dishwasher discharge hose.

If you want to spend a few extra dollars or if by removing the disposal it damages the sink, then you can pick up a pretty reasonably priced drop in stainless steel sink. You should have no problem finding a match in size to the one you have now so you don't have to modify the opening in the counter top.

As far as the faucet, if you are happy with the one you have then there is no reason to replace it. Just make sure if you get a new sink to make sure it matches the holes you have in the existing sink bowl. Most likely it's a 3 hole set-up 4" on center.

If you do replace the bowl, there is one tip that will save you lots of hassle and bloody knuckles. Install the faucet on the bowl before you install the bowl.
 

TheOriginalJames

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Yeah the faucets are junk, the sprayer hose leaks when you turn on the water so it has to be replaced either way.

I'm pretty sure the dishwasher inlet/drains are separate from the sink itself.

Thanks for the tips.

I'd like to get that replaced, but my dad was saying that we might have to redo the entire counter/cabinets at teh same time.
 

NuckingFuts

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I want to build a Toy box for my son. He has alot of shit, and it is every where. I have all the tools. I just dont have the know how. I have checked online. Really cant find anything. I know this is not really what you intended this thread to be. So sorry about that. I just dont want to buy a cheap plastic piece of crap.
 

Maulds

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I'm adding a bathroom in our shop at work. Nothing fancy, just a toilet really. I moved the water heater over 2 feet as well as the shop sink to make room for a toilet in the corner. We've already framed the walls up and dropped in wires for the fart fan (chuckle) and light. My question is about the toilet itself. I've never installed one. This one is going over a concrete slab so instead of busting up the floor I was planning to build a box for the toilet to sit on. I've got Advantech for the toilket to sit on and I figured I'd frame my box up with 2x8s or 2x10s as I bought elbows that turn pretty wide.

I have a 3x3x1.5 tee. I planned to install it right before my 3" line goes out thru the wall with the 1.5 going up for a vent pipe. Immediately outside the wall I was going to 90 down then put in a wye with a threaded cap added for an access then into the ground and over to tie into the line into the septic tank.

Any glaring problems with this plan so far?

Also in the toilet install instructions it says push the wax ring to the bowl and put sealant around it. Thats news to me...what do I use ass a sealant around the wax ring on the bowl?

There is a 1/2" cpvc line very near the toilet I was going to tee off of for a supply.
 

Tim

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I want to build a Toy box for my son. He has alot of shit, and it is every where. I have all the tools. I just dont have the know how. I have checked online. Really cant find anything. I know this is not really what you intended this thread to be. So sorry about that. I just dont want to buy a cheap plastic piece of crap.

Here are a couple of plans available on-line

A simple toy chest

Little bit more complicated

For the experienced woodworker

If you need something custom, just shoot me a quick drawing of what you want and I can create a CAD version of it with all the dimensions and cut list for ya.
 

Tim

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I'm adding a bathroom in our shop at work. Nothing fancy, just a toilet really. I moved the water heater over 2 feet as well as the shop sink to make room for a toilet in the corner. We've already framed the walls up and dropped in wires for the fart fan (chuckle) and light. My question is about the toilet itself. I've never installed one. This one is going over a concrete slab so instead of busting up the floor I was planning to build a box for the toilet to sit on. I've got Advantech for the toilket to sit on and I figured I'd frame my box up with 2x8s or 2x10s as I bought elbows that turn pretty wide.

I have a 3x3x1.5 tee. I planned to install it right before my 3" line goes out thru the wall with the 1.5 going up for a vent pipe. Immediately outside the wall I was going to 90 down then put in a wye with a threaded cap added for an access then into the ground and over to tie into the line into the septic tank.

Any glaring problems with this plan so far?

Also in the toilet install instructions it says push the wax ring to the bowl and put sealant around it. Thats news to me...what do I use ass a sealant around the wax ring on the bowl?

There is a 1/2" cpvc line very near the toilet I was going to tee off of for a supply.

Building a platform by far is the simplest and cheapest solution for a toilet on a concrete slab. As far as putting it on Advantech, that's perfect, just make sure you pick up a few cheap VCT tiles and finish off the surface since there is always a "overspray" problem in shops :D

Clean-outs are always a great idea... and that's how I would set mine up.

Your vent pipe will work fine as long as it's after the trap and no further than 7' away (where the tee connects to the 3" drain pipe) recommended size is 2" for the vent, but 1.5" will work just fine. (this does vary state to state, I do take it that this will not be inspected)

As far as the wax ring goes... you don't put the sealant at the wax ring, you seal the bowl to the floor if you so desire. There really is no need to do this in a shop setting, just pressing the wax ring snuggly to the bowl is all you need to do to get a tight seal. Make sure that when the bowl is set for the first time, sit on it and make sure it completely settles before tightening the bolts. If you try to seat the bowl onto the wax ring by tightening the bolts, you WILL break it. If you do want to seal the bowl, I recommend doing it after it is seated and bolted down. Just run a small bead of silicone where the bowl meets the floor. That way if you ever need to remove the bowl, you can just run a knife around the bead to break the seal. It makes remove MUCH easier.
 

Maulds

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Yeah I'd hoped to score a cheap piece of leftover vinyl or something to finish it off.

No this little number won't be inspected, but other than the 1.5 vent I think we'd pass ok. My co-workers had electrician and framing experience and they've done well, but they are leaning on me for all the plumbing. I was a fire-sprinkler fitter, never a plumber.
 
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My house needs new soffit and facia. Since they want your right arm and breast as payment for doing this down here we will likely be doing it ourselves.

Any suggestions or known problems we should be advised of?
 

Jersey

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Master Tim,

Any easy fix it ideas for this washing machine that I want to throw out the back door. It's not very old, but I got it from my mom's friend- so there is no warranty. It was working fine.. then today I went to do a load and its smelled like horrible burning rubber, and when I opened the lid- the clothes were soaked. So the spin cycle is not working...

Do you know of anyway to fix that?
 

Tim

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Sounds like your drive belt slipped/broke.

Is the machine overloaded? If there are too many clothes in it, or if something got stuck and prevented it from spinning, then the motor spins and the drum doesn't causing the belt to melt and/or break.

You can actually see if the belt is broke by removing the back of the machine (tools needed)

The very first thing to try... take half the clothes out... see if you can spin the drum by hand to see if anything is binding it, then restart it and see if it spins...

It may have just burned the belt a little without breaking it :dunno
 

Tim

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If you look at this drawing, you will see the belt around the base of the drum... This is what gives the burning rubber smell, when it slips on the motor shaft.


20030901_Washing_Machine_Leaks_page002img001_size2.jpg
 

Veronica

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Timothy: I have a question.

I was wanting to change out some light fixtures, However, I dont know how to do wiring.. SO, my question is, Could I easily do it, or should i pay someone to do it for me?
 

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The AC vent on one of my rooms is not blowing air. Is it a big deal to climb in the attic and see if it is blocked or if the duct is loose?
 

Tim

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Timothy: I have a question.

I was wanting to change out some light fixtures, However, I dont know how to do wiring.. SO, my question is, Could I easily do it, or should i pay someone to do it for me?

You can do it yourself. It's not that hard to do as long as you follow some basic safety rules. Home fixtures are very easy to replace with very few common tools.

Just let me know what is there now and what you would like to replace it with and I'll walk you through it.
 

Jersey

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Hey... Umm... does the plastic thing in the middle come off... or umm.. how do I check that belt?? And should I be uplugging it... I mean... water+electic=no good, right??
 
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